St Moritz is the oldest name in Alpine winter and the least apologetic about it. The skiing is broad and sunny rather than steep, and the week is as much about the town as the mountain — which is either the point or the problem, depending on the guest.
Which weeks
The season runs roughly December to early April, and the town is at its loudest between Christmas and mid-February. The White Turf race weekends in February fill the place entirely; if you want the mountain rather than the scene, late March gives you the sun and the space.
Where to stay
Badrutt’s Palace on Via Serlas is the address, on a guide of CHF 1,800, and its King’s Social House is where a good part of the town ends up at a CHF 2,500 guide. For a group, a staffed chalet is the quieter and often better-value answer — see how we place them.
The night
The Dracula Club in Kulm Park is the members’ room and the most particular door in the Alps, on a CHF 2,000 guide. It is an introduction rather than a booking, and worth asking about early.
Getting there
St Moritz is the awkward one to reach — Zürich is the usual arrival, then road or rail up. The Engadin has its own airport for smaller aircraft; we match the aircraft to the runway and the forecast rather than the other way round. Wider notes: the Saint-Moritz guide.